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Posts tagged ‘property’

Painting Methods: Adapting FOR the Environment

It is easy to paint, when the environmental conditions are optimal. The sun is out, and the air is dry and moderately cool.

 

On many occasions, painting must be done in less than suitable conditions. It may be overcast, humid, or confined.

 

Some of it is a matter of choice. Also, the pressure to get the job done promptly.

 

The ability to adapt to environmental changes and conditions allows a painter much greater flexibility, that he or she might not see in set conditions.

 

TIPS FOR ADAPTING FOR THE ENVIRONMENT

  1. When work is to be done outdoors, and whenever possible, select days that allow for the paint to dry properly, and you to work efficiently. Example: I’ve worked under humid conditions before only to see the paint run off the walls. The employer ignored recommendations to wait till conditions had improved.
  2. It is possible to enhance your working environment. Wear a hat when working in the sun. When working indoors, use a portable fan or air conditioner to improve air circulation. Some conditions, coupled with certain products, require the use of an organic vapor respirator, or a self-sustaining breathing apparatus. TIP: The driest possible air is essential for painting. At times, it is not possible.
  3. Minimize or adapt to toxic exposure by wearing protective head-to-toe clothing, gloves and safety goggles. Also, use a organic vapor respirator/fresh air supply system. Limit skin and breathing/respiratory exposure. Especially, chemicals, industrial solvents, and mold and mildew.
  4. Provide adequate ventilation, when working with chemicals. Even latex paints can cause breathing problems, and oxygen levels in the blood to decrease.

 

Working conditions can be altered in such a way as to not affect the quality or productivity of your work.

Take some time, forethought, and planning to improve where you work. And, to maximize the safety and health conditions in that work environment. On a daily basis.

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Everyone in a painter’s work space plays a role in the health and safety of that environment.

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Thank you for visiting “Painting with Bob.”

Copyright 2017. Robert D. Hajtovik. All rights reserved.

Paintshop: Working with Toxic Painting Chemicals

Protecting oneself from chemical exposure is the key to enjoying a long working life. In the coatings industry this is particularly important since coatings and paint materials contain any number of harmful components. With what they are designed to do, they have to. Paints must withstand the weather, corrosion, rigorous abrasion, and the penetrating rays of the sun.

 

Paint manufacturers and the chemists do their parts in helping to ensure the lasting quality and endurance of paint.

 

The painter is the one who applies a coating for a specific situation. Therefore, he is the one subject to the conditions produced in applying the material.

 

This is to inform you that you are in charge of what and how you are exposed to.

 

Here’s an example: You are assigned to paint the ceiling deck of a retail store. You assess the situation and realize there is certain equipment you will need. Namely a spray pump, fluid line, a spray gun, and possibly plastic to cover what doesn’t get painted.

 

If you are a seasoned professional, then you also know you must protect yourself. You know this because you have prior experience with the product you are going to use. The paint is composed of various inorganic solids and evaporative solvents which are dangerous to one’s health. But, that’s what the job calls for.

 

Under most circumstances, most anyone would say, that doesn’t mean you can’t do it. Figure out how you can paint the ceiling without becoming seriously ill. This was a major problem in the early 1900’s when there was lead in the paint, and painters had virtually no breathing protection. Their life expectancy was often shorter.

 

Today, however, the toxicity of the various paint chemicals has met its match. If the painter “works smart”, there is no longer a reason for him to suffer.

 

This is what’s available to the painter and to everyone serious about their health:

 

  1. Self- Enclosed Breathing Apparatus. Similar to what firefighters and scuba divers use, it provides the optimum conditions for breathing in a toxic environment. It is composed of a compressed oxygen air tank and a facial mask or a complete helmet.

 

  1. An Inorganic Vapor Respirator. This is the painter’s most universal tool next to the brush and spray gun. It is a face mask design containing filter cartridges which remove substances in the air before you inhale. The cartridges become filled with contaminants and must be replaced regularly. Caution: When in an enclosed space, the solvent concentration can build up to a point where the cartridges cannot prevent the solvent vapor from coming through. If you know this before hand, opt for the Self-Enclosed breathing system.

 

  1. Air Flow Mask. This is a simple system in which air is supplied to a transparent type bag mask. The incoming air blows through the mask providing you with breathable air, as well as blowing through an opening the size of your mouth and eyes. This current of air keeps any dust and overspray from entering. It is not recommended for keeping out high evaporative solvent vapor.

 

  1. Full Body Suit. It is a thin cloth suit which can be used under many conditions. A mechanic could use one to keep the grease and oil off of him. For the painter, it prevents paint overspray, paint platter and a minimal amount of solvents from coming in contact with his skin. In this, it keeps the chemical from being absorbed out into the bloodstream. The body suit is very important to have on hand.

 

  1. Head Sock, Eye Protection and Gloves. These are accessory items that provide additional protection. They are one of the best precautions you can take, because they protect vital areas. Sometimes these items are taken for granted. You may take them off and forget to put them back on because you’re so busy. Big mistake!

 

I once was working on a wood striping project, when my gloves became dissolved up by the solvent. I kept on working without them.

 

Later, when I had finished, I saw that my hands were extremely dry. I then thought to myself, “I wonder how much of that solvent made it into my bloodstream and into my brain. I felt a little queasy and I was wearing a respirator. See what can happen?

 

Recommendations: Be your own advocate. It’s your health that will suffer if you aren’t.

 

* When first starting to work with a product, read the manufacturer’s label where it concerns

safety precautions.

*My own personal advice: Have a box or container in your vehicle in which to store only safety

equipment.

*Always keep a spare set of respirator cartridges. When you can’t find any, you’re likely to

keep working.

*Some products are against the law for use to consumers. This means they are even more toxic.

 

When working with paints, coatings, and solvents, toxicity is self evident. Prepare yourself so you will live to paint another day, and not one in which your family loses you.

 

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Toxic exposure is everyone’s business on the job.

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Thank you for visiting “Painting with Bob.”

Copyright 2016. Robert D. Hajtovik. All rights reserved.

Estate Properties: Repainting and Redecorating within the Sale Prep Budget

A loved one passes away, and is laid to rest. His or her estate must be settled in a legally acceptable and timely order. The residence – eg. house, townhouse, condo – is a major part of that estate. And, it must be sold.

 

Often, each heir will have a wish list for using his or her share of the monetary proceeds. Each heir expects to get at least a certain amount.

 

The final sale price must be maximized. The property needs to undergo a facelift, before it goes on the market.

 

A Skilled Painter and Decorator’s role

 

A painter, skilled in renovation and restoration – especially of estate properties – can hold the key to realizing a lucrative sale.

 

  1. The painter will be able to accentuate the home’s attributes and advantages.
  2. The painter will be able to upgrade the home’s features to appeal to today’s real estate market.
  3. The painter will be able to camouflage or minimize its flaws – uneven walls, cracked wood.
  4. The painter will be able to suggest or advise the seller(s) about other work to have done, and by whom.

 

The painter can help the estate trustee or administrator work up a total facelift estimate.

Also, the painter/decorator can help determine an itemized budget range for each service that needs to be completed. Prior to listing the property for sale.

 

Painting/decorating tips gleaned from giving an interior facelift to a home prior to listing.

 

Keep the facelift simple. Make it suitable to the home’s architecture, style, worth, and location.

 

  1. TIP: To minimize the pale yellow cast of once white ceilings, custom tint white latex wall a very light yellow-white. This stretches facelift budget that cannot cover repainting of ceilings.

 

  1. TIP: Paint all walls throughout the home the same custom-tinted paint mentioned above. This creates flowing, uniform look.

 

  1. TIP: Repaint the bathrooms in their same original color – in this case soft yellow. This helps contain paint product costs.

 

  1. TIP: Limit repainting in kitchens, breakfast nooks, etc. that often feature tiled wall areas.

 

  1. TIP: Select high-end paint products, known (a) offer better coverage and (b) require only one coat. Especially in older homes, and in certain climates.

 

  1. TIP: Give ample attention to cleaning and prepping all surfaces to be re-finished. Examples: patching, filling, caulking, sanding. Allot enough drying time between steps and applications. Remember: The quality of a finishing job is linked directly to the quality of the surface prepping.

 

  1. TIP: Limit priming to surfaces that really need it. Hint: Areas that will likely stay the same finish color for at least the first year of new ownership.

 

  1. TIP: Apply finish coat to walls, trim, doors, etc. room-by-room. Or, whichever way that will assure ample drying time, a uniform finish throughout, and save in overall labor costs.

 

 

Before you call in a painter. . .

 

Empty the home’s interior to the walls. Here are a few tips to help you.

 

  1. Distribute and remove all personal items. (Follow the terms of the trust and/or will.) This includes all types of items such as furniture, accessories, appliances; china, silver, housewares, cookware; clothing, jewelry; linens, textiles; antiques, collectibles, books, etc.

 

  1. Remove and place remaining valuables in the hands of the best available dealers. Examples: expensive jewelry, art; antiques, collectibles, glass, books.

 

  1. If there’s time, hold a “class act” yard sale for the rest of personal property. Roll out the red carpet bargain-prices. Offer boxed/bagged/packaged group deals. Offer some quality items for free.

 

  1. GOOD NEIGHBOR TIP: If your loved one lived in the neighborhood for years: Invite close neighbors to come and select a few items to keep. No charge.

 

  1. Donate some of the nicer clothing, accessories, linens, etc. to a local church-run thrift shop.

 

  1. Donate whatever is left to the nearest Goodwill Industries, Salvation Army, or similar charity store. Call in advance to make certain they offer pick-up service.

 

Giving a home its final touches of paint and finish – facelift – before its estate sale can be rewarding.

In a way, the painter gets the opportunity to help the family give their loved one’s property a proper send off. And, that may help those left behind find some sense of closure.

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When people know how much you care about them, they care about how much you know.

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Special thanks to supporters through LinkedIn.com and Google+.  See you on the IN-side.

And, thanks, everyone, for visiting “Painting with Bob.”

Copyright 2015. Robert D. Hajtovik. All rights reserved.

 

Painting with Marley – and One Curious 3-Year Old

A surprise visit from a property owner’s pet iguana reminded me of an old iguana friend.

 

“Marley” and I met in June of 2007. On the walkway between Engineering Department’s doors and the back of the building.

 

He measured at least four feet in length. weighing over ten pounds. And, he blocked my path. Refusing to budge.

 

I stood and stared. Captivated by this amazing, and beautiful, creature.

 

His scales glistened in the bright sun. Showing off a kaleidoscope of hues in green, blue, red, and orange. He had a “third – parietal – eye” on the top of his head. A tall-to-short row of spines – “dewlap” – that ran down his back to the tail. Behind his neck, I saw these small, “spoke” like scales. And, then there was a very large round scale on each cheek.

 

It was my first very close encounter with a Green iguana. Considered a 21st century descendent of the prehistoric Polychrotid lizard.

 

Getting back to Marley. The name I gave him in late 2007, after crossing his path at least weekly.

 

One morning, our meeting was not exactly friendly. I’d needed to leave a freshly-coated exterior corridor, on the second story to help my boss move something very heavy.

 

Upon returning, I found claw marks in the damp, unset paint. And, Marley lying, leisurely, at the top of the steps that I’d rolled out less than a half-hour earlier.

 

The frustrating point came next. No matter what I did, the iguana would not move. Even when three young guests, in swim trunks, appeared at the foot of the steps.

 

My first instinct: Protect the three boys. Position myself between them and the iguana. That worked fine with the two older children.

 

The youngest, however, ignored me – and the WET PAINT signs. He ran onto the wet surface. Toward the iguana.

 

“AN’MAL! AN’MAL!” he shouted happily. “AN’MAL! Come here.”

 

Well, the “an’mal” raised on all fours. He swished that tail a couple of times. Then, he jumped from the second story landing, to the ground beneath. Scurrying toward the nearest clump of dense bushes.

 

The youngest boy following closely behind. “AN’MAL! AN…..’MAL!”

 

His big brothers chased after him. “NO, DAVID.” “Stop, Davie.”

 

I took off running after all three boys. My greatest concern was for their safety. The second concern: Marley.

 

Suddenly, alongside me appeared this lady in a dripping wet swimsuit. The boys’ mother.

 

In a flash, she had all three sons corralled, and following her back to the gazebo in the pool area.

 

Lucky for me, the iguana’s claw marks in the paint were easy to lightly smooth out with a No. 2 steel wool pad.

 

The first thing next morning, I re-coated that section of the concrete corridor. Guarding the area for fifteen minutes longer than necessary. Until the special coating had dried completely.

 

Moral of the story: Watch out for four-legged creatures and two-legged boys when painting open, and public, spaces.

 

Footnote: The last time I saw Marley was the afternoon of April 19, 2013. He stood on the hotel’s side of the fence. He peered toward the nearby, swampy pond. And, “Charlie,” a resident Alligator, floating along like an old log. Only the top of his snout and beady eyes above water.

 

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Lucky is the painter that can work in the midst of nature.

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Here’s hoping that you have a great month, everyone. Thanks for visiting “Painting with Bob.”

 

Copyright 2015. Robert D. Hajtovik. All rights reserved.

Painting Them: Closets with Class

Add appeal, style and even a new life to closets, or closet alcoves, in your hotel, facility – or home.

 

1. Paint the entire area in a color that complements with the room’s color. Example: Room color: off-white, closet color: light sand.

TIP: Use up some interior paint color no longer needed, because of a property color scheme change.

 

2. Paint the most visible closet wall in the same color used in the room. Paint the side walls in a contrasting color.

 

3. Create horizontal border effect on all of the closet walls.

A. Paint lower two-third of walls the same color used in room.

B. Paint upper one-third of walls in white, or contrasting color.

C. Or, reverse it: Contrast or white on lower part, main room’s color as upper border.

 

4. Paint all walls white, or light tint of the color on room’s walls.

Install wallpaper border on the room wall outside of the closet, running it around walls inside the closet.

 

5. Install remnant wallcoverings, purchased at paint store. Mix and match.

A. Supplier tip: Check with major local contractors that do a lot of wallcovering installation.

B. Shopping tip: Look for colors that complement or contrast with your regular color scheme.

C. Material tip: Look for white-on-white stripes, subtle patterns, textures that remind you of scenes/areas/amenities on your property.

D. Great find: Commercial grade products. Examples: Designs such as pebbles, grasscloths, hemps; laminated wood veneers; leathers. These wallcoverings are very durable, and usually come in wide panels. NOTE: Many tend to be heavier, and harder to handle.

 

6. Install wallpaper or vinyl on the most visible wall in the closet, or closet alcove. After painting other walls in lighter hue of nearest room wall color.

 

7. Install complementary wallcoverings on adjoining walls of closet, or closet alcove.

 

GENERAL TIPS:

Colors: Keep it/them light, and neutral.

Textures: Keep it/them durable, easy-to-clean and similar.

Patterns: Keep them complementary to others in the area, and to those used in adjoining room.

Special Effects: As creative as you can get. As creative as management will let you be.

Panel directions: Horizontal, vertical, diagonal. Whatever!

 

A CLOSET WITH A VIEW. . .

 

A relative in Ohio moved into a large corner studio in an assisted living facility. She had one window. It overlooked the end of a parking lot. She had two closets.

 

Her grandsons decided to turn the smaller closet into a work-computer space for Grandma Anne.

 

1. They installed a soft, pink-on-white vertical striped wallpaper on the room’s wall, adjacent to the window wall.

2. They installed the same wallcovering on the two side walls of the closet.

3. On the closet’s back wall, they installed a “window garden scene” panel of wallpaper, with the same pink-on-white pattern/background as the panels hung on the closet’s side walls.

4. Inside the closet, they installed a remnant white marble laminate counter.

5. On one end, they installed adjustable shelving, that faced the counter, not the doorway.

6. Under the counter, they slid in a two-drawer metal cabinet, repainted high-gloss petal pink.

7. With management’s written authorization, the grandsons ran a multiple-plug panel from the room’s nearest outlet, into the closet, on the floor. No lighting fixtures were installed in the closet. Mainly because of code regulations and property restrictions.

 

Today, Anne sits at her counter…emails family and friends…does on-line personal business…and enjoys the special outside view.

 

Closets can be great fun to decorate.

 

The creative opportunities are endless. Their smaller dimensions, standardly, make them perfect spots to use up fabulous, left-over, better or top quality products and materials. To experiment with new layouts, and techniques. To try new combinations of colors, patterns and textures.

 

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Try a closet on for size! Make each one a little unique!

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Thank you for taking an interest in your space. And for visiting “Painting with Bob.”
Copyright 2015. Robert D. Hajtovik. All rights reserved.

 

The Art of Sign Painting

Signs are important messengers. Designed and situated to pass on information, usually to many people. A few examples:

 

Botanical sign – Identifies specie of flora or fauna, often both the scientific and popular names.

Zoo sign – Identifies specific creature, and describe its unique characteristics.

Historical landmark sign – Identifies natural or man-made site, wonder, building, etc.

Destination sign – Identifies place, how to reach it, approximate distance, “special interest” trivia.

Property sign – Identifies property, usually with only name and a logo.

Commercial sign– Displays business name, location, phone numbers and web address.

Product/Service sign – Advertises general or specific goods and/or services available for purchase/use.

Event sign – Announce upcoming special event, as well as its date (s), location, contact information.

 

ABOUT VINYL AND PLASTIC SIGNAGE

 

Today, many signs, particularly commercial and product/service, are made of pre-stamped or pre-printed sheets of vinyl and/or plastic.

 

* Advantages: Durable, waterproof, fade proof, tear proof. Involve no drying time, on site. Allow efficient delivery to the customers. Very appealing, aesthetically.

* Disadvantages: Cost, and longer design and production times.

 

Hand-painted signs have a place in an electronic-tech driven world.

 

Signs that are hand-painted – by brush, roller, and/or spray – have a unique place in the “space of things.”

 

Sign painting is still needed where surfaces and spaces call for an artist’s personal touch.

 

Sign paint is almost a lost art these days. Still, clients and customers may request and need it, when their surface, spatial and budget call for this special touch. So, it deserves some explanation for painters who wish to try it.

 

About surface preparation.

 

The level of a surface’s preparation is determined by the distance from which the sign will be viewed. A few examples:

– From 100 feet. Surface needs to be moderately smooth. Minimal prepping and sanding may be needed.

– Close and at eye-level. Surface needs to be smooth-to-the-touch. Thorough prepping will be needed.

 

  1. The surface should be “dry” and moderately “smooth.”
  2. Weather conditions should be dry and reasonably clear. Avoid full sun.

 

Once the surface has been prepared, you’re ready to get down to the real fun – and challenge.

 

Follow the simple recommendations listed below to turn your sign painting venture into a big success.

 

1. Plan out on a piece of paper the location of your words and /or numbers.

A. Measure phrase/line length, word length, distance between letters and sentences.

B. Maintain an even spacing.

 

2. Mark horizontal lines, indicating the bottom of the letters and words.

A. Use markings which can be removed easily. Do not use ink.

 

3. Use stencils to lay out and pencil in letters.

A. Or, if you are gifted, use the free hand painting method.

B. For sizable letters, a bounce pattern can be used.

 

4. A “steady hand” and a “sharp eye” are typically required, either way you do it.

A. Used together, from start-to-finish, they will help you complete phase to specification.

B. For your sign to come out looking good, both must be used with the right precision as needed.

 

5. Two brush styles are normally used: the flat and the filbert.

A. The size you choose will depend on the width of the letters and numbers.

B. The size you choose will also depend on the style of each respective letter or number.

 

6. When painting a letter, you generally want to load the brush according to the letter size.

A. Too much paint on the end of the bristles will create a wavy line.

B. Too little paint on the end of the bristles will create an uneven flow.

 

7. Do not use masking tape, under any circumstance.

A. The paint will suck in underneath the tape.

B. It will make a difficult job that much harder, and messy.

NOTE: It’s something I do not do.

 

8. Oil paint is the medium of choice when it comes to doing signs.

A. It is water proof, dries hard, and cleans easily of dirt or residue.

B. It also flows extremely well when applying.

 

Product Recommended: Bulletin Colors brand. They are specifically designed for sign painting.

 

Painting a sign is a creative challenge – and opportunity.

 

Painting a sign will really test your ability to paint a straight line.

 

1. It requires a “special attention to detail,” versus the standard skills used for production painting.

2. It requires a steady hand and precision craftsmanship.

3. It requires ample time and patience.

4. And, it requires a unique passion for detail-work.

 

One of my sign painting challenges and opportunities:

 

I once hand-painted a sign, that had over 350 letters and numbers. It required precision work. And, it stretched my sign painting abilities way beyond my perceived limits. (I couldn’t wait till I was finished.)

 

Every sign painting project offers its own new and amazing opportunity to test one’s skills. And, to stand back and congratulate yourself.  For the fantastic signage left in the full view of others!

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Many thanks, Ron!

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And, thanks to everyone for visiting, “Painting with Bob.”

Copyright 2015. Robert D. Hajtovik. All rights reserved.

Changes and Advancements in Hotel/Facility Painting, Part 2: Products and Materials

 

Introduction:

 

Products and materials designed for the hospitality painting market are developed for (1) aesthetics of the guest environment, and (2) durability. For a paint job to last, there has to be color retention, as well as resistance to fading – and the elements.

The market now manufactures products with low odor, excellent matching qualities and high coverage. All to reduce the amount of products/materials used, and increases in cost.

 

1. Changes and Advancements in Products:

 

A. Waterborne interior alkyd. Feature: Provides hard, durable finish ideal for moldings, doors, furniture, and cabinetry.

B. Dual component paints. Feature: Designed to act as both primer and finish.

C. Exterior clear coats for wood. Feature: Increase color retention, and to aid in the prevention of cracking and mold damage.

D. Flame retardant additives for paint.

E. Silicon-based anti-fouling paints. Advantage: Reduce ship hull conductivity and corrosion.

F. Waterborne odorless epoxy. Feature: Provides hard, durable interior finish on drywall and masonry surfaces.

 

Comments about Products:

 

Manufacturers make every effort to develop products that are designed to ease application by painters and finishers, and consumers. Also, they strive for products that create a more durable finish.

 
2. Changes and Advancements in Materials – eg. wallcoverings:

 

A. Resin-based wallcovering. Feature: Designed to simulate natural woods and textiles.

B. Plasticized resin. Featured use: Coating of siding, wood, or metal.

C. Vinyl wallcovering. Feature: Simulates decorative finishes.

D. Colorized sand-finished plaster. Advantage: Eliminates the need for paint.

 

Comments about Materials:

 

Advancement in materials is highly specialized. Modern architectural design stimulates the need for materials which are new. Also, it requires an advanced chemical design and composition of materials. Example: A plastic which looks like metal.

 
Closing Comments about Painting Products and Materials:

 

Select a product or material which best suits your intended use. When you want a finish to last, follow the manufacturer’s and vendor’s recommendations. From surface preparation through the final finishing stages.

Learn about the development and testing of construction materials that address problems with which you must deal on a regular basis. Example: Materials that actually deter the growth and infestation of toxic black mold fungi.  Such materials are of special interest to painters and engineering techs, as well as other hotel and facility workers, in high-heat/high-humidity regions of the country.

 

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Thank you for visiting “Painting with Bob.”

 

“Orange light” from Kilauea Crater: A Hawai’ian Painter’s View

FLORIDA—Written Thursday, October 30, 2014.

 

A painter friend on Hawai’i’s big island offered me an unlimited amount of “Orange light” to decorate for the Christmas season. (Yes, Christmas versus Halloween.)

 

He was joking. And, he was referring to the orange lava flowing from Kilauea Crater. I understood his efforts to keep light-hearted, and stay grounded. His hotel and resort was filled to capacity with vacationers and conventioners that had evacuated Pāhoa, and other south and southeast areas of Hawai’i.

 

“Joel (not real name), what are you doing with all of those extra guests? And staff?” I emailed back to him on Thursday, as the lava flow slowed down. “Getting ready for Christmas, Bob.”

 

“I hear you.”

 

“We have a huge property here. We’re used to being very busy. The extra team members – highly trained and proficient – have been a big help already. It takes a lot of hands to decorate for the holidays.”

 

Joel always reminds me of the Energizer Bunny. Some of it comes from his industrial painting background in the Chicago area (eg. steel mills, foundries) – and his family. (A lot of firefighters and police officers.) Anyway….

 

“We’ve recruited some of the guests. I’d say at least nine to help the staff set up for the holidays. String up lights. There are MANY MILES of those,” he e-mailed.

 

“We have our story scenes. Our – Hawai’i’s version – celebration and fun. Seven of those in all.” He ran off the list of seven. I was very impressed. All of the scenes’ structures, props, etc. have been hand-crafted from native woods.

 

“Groups of children are making decorations for our Christmas trees – three of those. Centerpieces for the tables, also extra pieces for our Luaus…” Joel said the hotel had added a special Luau, early dinner time. Just for children. “They’re eating it up.”

 

“Yesterday, I put three retiree guests to work repainting Santa’s sleigh scene. This morning, we unpacked the contemporary nativity scene, and set it up for repairs and touch-ups this PM.

 

“Some of the guests came over to us somewhat shook-up, feeling on edge. Looking for some reassurance they’ll be okay. Needing something to ground them, to hold onto.

 

“This is a good time of the year to be here, Bob. Gives these families a little time to re-ground, re-group. Plan their next move. Gives them some extra attention.

 

“They’ll be fine. More and more, I see them relaxing, walking holding hands, smiling. Heading for the beaches. Venturing off the property. That’s real good, Bob.”

 

“Yeah, that’s real good, Joel.”

 

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Thankfully, as of Friday, October 31, 2014, Kilauea had calmed down. Pāhoa area residents were still taking precautions. Staying away, in safe zones. We wish them the best.

 

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Communities in Kilauea’s path: The residents of Pāhoa, and also Kalapana, have been in jeopardy. Pāhoa is located directly east of the Kilauea Crater, and south-southeast of Hilo. Kalapana is located between Kilauea and Pāhoa, to the south.

 

Location of Kilauea Volcano: Kilauea Crater is located west of Pāhoa, northeast of Puna Forest Reserve, east of Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park, southwest of Hilo, and west of Hawai’i Paradise Park and Hawai’i Beaches (south of Hilo).

 

A piece of Kilauea history: Kilauea Volcano is a “hyperactive shield volcano.” It is the most active of the five that form Hawai’i. It has been erupting continuously since January 3, 1883. Between 1750 and 1982, it erupted sixty-three times.

 

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This is for painters wherever you work, and live. Try to stay safe, everyone. Thank you for visiting “Painting with Bob.”

Using What You Have to Paint Property Face-Lifts

Most facility painters’ budgets are set at, or close to, maintenance level.  Little room or flexibility exists for creative license. Or the budget to buy new paint to “get creative.”

Still, many facility painters are masters at utilizing what they have available. With skill and a keen eye, they add creative touches where they are needed, will draw attention, and enhance the property’s physical and aesthetic value.

To liven up your property, try one or more of these face-lifts.

* ROOMS/AREAS: Guest rooms.

** What you have: Two gallons of paint in a color no longer used.

  1. Select ten of your economy rooms with walls painted in the same color.
  2. Tint the paint two-to-three shades darker.
  3. In each guest room, paint a 4-inch to 6-inch border on the wall opposite the bedroom, or bath vanity, mirror.

* ROOMS/AREAS: Game Room.

** What you have: Two gallons of paint in colors close to each other, or to the color(s) on walls.

  1. Create block grid border at top of two or more walls.
  2. With pencil, lightly mark – color code – alternating blocks. Ex: G (green); B (Blue.
  3. Using a small brush (1-inch, 1 ½ inch) with angled edge, cut-in the corners and outer edges of all blocks with same color code. Ex: G (green).
  4. Start at your first cut-in block. Use the same, or wider (2-inch) brush to paint in each block.
  5. Repeat Steps 3 and 4 for the blocks marked with the second color code. Ex: B (Blue).

TIPS:

  1. This project can be done in stages: One color/one wall at a time; one color/two walls.
  2. Project can be done around your work orders, regular projects and emergency calls.
  3. Project can be done in public area, during lower traffic times.

* FURNISHING/ACCESSORY: Stored pictures and frames.

** What you have: 2-1/ 2 gallons latex semi-gloss: off-white, beige; 2 spray cans of clear gloss.

  1. In furniture storage, find 20 “abandoned” framed pictures. Choose odor/stain/mold free pieces.
  2. Get written okay from Rooms Manager to recycle these stored pieces.
  3. In paint shop, remove the picture from each frame. Clean off dust and residue.
  4. Lay pictures side-by-side on a large clean dropcloth.
  5. Coat pictures. Proceed with “A” or “B” below.
  6. Lightly spray each with clear gloss paint.
  7. Pour one-third of off-white paint into a small plastic bucket. Thin with 1/ 8 cup, or 4  tablespoons, of warm water. Stir well. Use small roller and lightly coat all pictures.

  NOTE: Parts of each picture should show through the paint. Let dry thoroughly.

8. Clean dust and residue from all frames. Lightly sand each with No. 120 sandpaper, or 220 for varnished wood. Lay them side-by-side on a large clean dropcloth.

9. If you have a spare can of primer, lightly coat each frame to enhance durability of new finish.

10. Use 1-inch to 2-inch brush, and coat each frame with the off-white paint.

11. Let both picture inserts and frame dry thoroughly.

For Faux-Frames:

  1. On another day: Pour 1/ 4 of beige paint into small disposable container. Add small amount of remaining off-white paint. Mix well.
  2. Lightly “spot” brush, dab or sponge new paint color on each frame, onto the edges of inserted pictures. Let dry thoroughly before hanging.

 

* ROOMS/AREAS: Public restrooms

** What you have: Two double rolls of obsolete wallcovering.

  1. Measure the running length of each bathroom’s alcove walls around sinks and mirrors.
  2. Cut wallcovering vertically – in 2-inch or 3-inch wide strips. Regardless of pattern or texture.
  3. Install wallcovering strips HORIZONTALLY along top seam of each wall.
  4. TIP: No need to match pattern. You’re after the SURPRISE effect – and reaction!

CREATE-A-GALLERY PROJECT

 * ROOMS/AREAS: Corridor with variable-width narrower walls.

**  What you have: Under one-half gallon of three different pastel latex paints.

  1. Use white 8 ½-inch by 11-inch paper, create your own 8 ½ by 11 paint chip of each color.
  2. To decide which color to put on which wall:
  3. Tape one chip on each wall. Tape so the side of each chip is arranged close to adjacent one.
  4. Stand in different spots, at least 1 foot away from wall-grouping. How do they look?
  5. Rearrange paint chips onto different walls. Stand back again. How do they look?
  6. Rearrange chips until you find the right look. (Get a few other opinions before you paint.
  7. Once color placement is decided, dust off each wall with a wide paint brush on extended pole.
  8. Mix one color paint at a time.
  9. Then paint each color on its selected wall. And let entire area dry.
  10. Walls can be used to display paintings, framed hotel community volunteerism awards, etc.

 

SPECIAL PROJECT: CHILDREN’S ART GALLERY PROJECT

* ROOMS/AREAS: Children’s indoor activity area.

** What you have: ½ gallon each of two pastel paints, and two medium shades, semi-gloss latex.

  1. Lightly sand, and dust clean at least two adjoining walls in the children’s activity area.
  2. Paint both walls with one or two coats of the same pastel color. Let dry thoroughly.
  3. Measure and draw a 4-to 6-inch border completely around the enjoined wall area.
  4. Add a small amount of black semi-gloss or gloss latex to one of the medium shades. Mix well.
  5. Paint a fake picture frame in the border space.
  6. While the paint is wet, take artist brushes. Make lines, swirls, dots, etc. through the paint.

** TIP: Work through existing surface paint. OR, detail/“highlight” with different color.

  1. Paint a large “Children’s Art Gallery” sign in the top outside corner of one of the walls.

** TIP: Remember to “hang it” from the wall, by painting in a “Hook” and sturdy cord or rope.

NOTE: Ask teammates to advertise the GALLERY. Travel/reservation websites; front desk, guest rooms, restaurants, food court, pool gazebos, information boards/kiosks throughout property.

* ROOMS/AREAS: Guestroom bathrooms. Color of walls: Mint Green

** What you have: Three gallons of bath latex in obsolete color. Example: Light blue.

  1. Select five bathrooms to start.
  2. Decide where to place the border. Examples: Horizontally along the ceiling line; vertically along the edge of the door frame; around mirror, along wall corners.
  3. Lay out the border – 4 to 6 inches wide. Lightly mark with a pencil, or chalk.
  4. Choose your design and colors.

Example: One color: Light or medium blue-green.

Example: Sponging – Base coat: Lt. blue. Sponging over-coat: Lt. blue-green.

Example: Jacguard effect – 3 colors: Lt. blue, med. blue, lt. blue-green.

Example: Stencil. Base coat – Lt. Blue-green; Stencil coats: light blue and/or mint green.

SPECIAL PROJECT:  Reviving 250 used wood-framed vanity mirrors.

“What are we going to do with these?” asked my chief engineer. He pointed toward a room full of 250 used wood-framed vanity mirrors. “Any ideas?”  “OH YEAH,” I smiled. And, as soon as I could find the time, I started to refinish every piece.

  1. Working on twenty at a time, I cleaned and dusted off each mirror and fiber-molded frame.
  2. Next, I masked off the glass using masking paper and tape.
  3. The mirrors were placed side-by-side on a large, clean dropcloth.
  4. Each molded frame was sprayed with grey primer – and let to dry thoroughly.
  5. The primed frames were not sanded before finishing – fragile frame composition and design.
  6. Last, I applied a Metallic Gold finish to each frame.

The effect?  Book a few rooms, or suites, at the SERALAGO HOTEL & SUITES, KISSIMMEE, FLORIDA.

See for yourself!  (Ask for a room or suite with a gold-framed mirror.)

Paint Shop Tip: Most products and materials have limited shelf life. So, the adage “Use it or lose it” can turn out to be true.

Use what you have to redecorate, rejuvenate, revive, and restore. It’s fun! It’s cost-conscious! It’s environmentally conscientious!  And, it’s an awesome thing to do.

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Have fun. Paint a Project. Thanks for visiting “Painting with Bob.”

Painting in Property Compliance: Signage, Symbols, Striping, Lettering, Zoning

Government codes are precise about which, and how, certain public, restricted and private areas must be marked on a property. This is for the safety of the public – and employees.

Specific signage and symbols must be placed at precise spots – in relation to borders, obstacles, pipes, operating equipment, etc. Stripes and lines must meet width and length specifications. Any lettering must be the specified font style, size and color. All markings must be painted with specification paint products, in code colors. The paint must be applied to the required thickness.

Often, the painting and maintaining of these areas rests with the facility’s staff painter. On large properties, the work is handled usually by commercial or industrial painting contractors. In large communities, you will find painting contractors that specialize in compliance painting. (It can be a very lucrative business.)

Here’s part of the “compliance checklist” that I developed to make certain I kept on top of these painting projects. The goal: Help keep the property, and business, in government compliance.

1. Handicapped parking space

A. Blue and White wheelchair symbol. Place within the middle of parking stall space.

B. Blue parking stall lines – left and right sides of stall space.

2. No parking zone

A. Emergency Services area: Red stripes – Diagonal parallel – Emergency Services area.

B. Public Warning area: Safety Yellow stripes – Diagonal parallel.

3. Loading/Unloading

A. SAFETY YELLOW and Red stripes – Combo – or

B. Individual – perpendicular parallel striping.

4. Pedestrian crossing

A. White – diagonal striping.

B. With/without SAFETY YELLOW stripe border.

5. Parking bumper pad

A. SAFETY YELLOW or Black – Solid – Corresponding diagonal stripes.

B. SAFETY YELLOW on Black or Black on SAFETY YELLOW.

6. Emergency vehicles only

A. SAFETY RED – Diagonal striping and lettering. Typical color.

7. Oversized vehicles

A. SAFETY YELLOW – Straight or diagonal striping.

8. Compact vehicles – Found usually in parking garages

A. White or SAFETY YELLOW – Diagonal stripes – Border.

B. Reduced stall width – Restricts use of large vehicle.

9. Bike path

A. White border/line – Single line – Complete length of path.

B. Street crossings: White and SAFETY YELLOW – Diagonal lines. Red may be required.

10. Recreation court

A. Dependent on recreation form – eg. tennis, basketball, volleyball.

B. Examples: Tennis courts: WHITE-all lines; RED or GREEN-specific zones: eg. Serving box.

C. Follow standards for your application.

D. Keep gallons of CHALK white, BRIGHT RED, and green in shop.

11. DANGER: HOT PIPES; DANGER: ELECTRIC WIRES; DANGER: LOW OVERHEAD.

A. Electrical conduit and piping systems. Check their standardized color coding systems.

B. Examples: Gas lines: Black. Water lines: SAFETY BLUE.

C. “DANGER” – SAFETY RED lettering – in all cases.

12. Pool area

A. No striping or color coding required.

B. Inside pools: Depth markings required. Typical color: BLACK.

C. Bottom stripes optional. Typical color(s): BLACK

13. Parking stall markers

A. WHITE lines – Regular parking; BLUE lines – Handicapped.

B. Parallel side markers: Safety Yellow. May need to be specific to asphalt type of coating.

C. Space size: 18 feet from curb to bumper or bumper pad; width: 9 feet; 11-11 ½ feet apart.

TIP 1: Create a chart for this checklist. Painter-to-property specific works best. Here’s your chance to get creative with that EXCEL program. My chart includes the following:

(1) list of areas, and requirements for each area;

(2) scheduled “DO-IT” week for each project, and how often it needs to be done;

(3) check mark ü symbol, if supervisor/management “go-ahead” is needed;

(4) paint product manufacturers, specification color numbers and names, drying times, quantity needed of each color, each time;

(5) available can sizes, approximate cost for each can of paint/coating/finish;

(6) list of supplies: paint thinner, plumb-line, masking tape, paper, etc.

(7) scaled down full-color icons of symbols, signs, stripes, lines, etc.

TIP 2: Once a year, or more often: Do a clipboard/notebook/App-board walk-around the property, with your supervisor/manager. Take your checklist along. Take notes. If done on your hand-held device, regularly click “SAVE.”

TIP 3: Access a copy of the standards and code compliance book for your property. Make two full-color copies of the section that applies to property code markings. Put each copy in a separate binder. Label each cover. Make one copy accessible to anyone that works in  engineering/facilities. Keep the second copy in your paint shop, in a secure place.

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Which markings wear off or fade the fastest on your hotel/facility property?

Which painting-related warning signs and tapes work best on your property?

Which area(s) need, but lack, safety markings on your hotel/facility property?

Which area(s) need, but lack, signage on your property?

Examples: “Cross-Traffic,” “Staff Parking,” “Permit Parking Only,” “Hours of Use,” “CAUTION.”

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Be property safe! Help your property be compliant! Thanks for visiting “Painting with Bob.”

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